KATHMANDU, March 2: Two expedition teams from Nepal that had set out for the Everest region to introduce a commercial route to the summit of Mt Cho Oyu from the Nepal side have been forced to turn back after encountering unfavorable conditions yet again in their final push for the summit.
A team from Pioneer Adventure led by Mingma Dorchi Sherpa and another independent team led by Geljen Sherpa were both struck with high-speed winds and were forced to turn back to base camp without reaching the summit.
According to Nivesh Karki, executive director at Pioneer Adventure, Mingma and his team managed to reach above 7,650 meters from the southwest route of the mountain before facing strong winds and turning back to base camp. The team had also faced other difficulties which are faced while taking a route no one has ever taken. The team fell short on ropes twice in their push for the summit and were also not well equipped as they faced various technical difficulties.
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As for Geljen’s team, their push for Cho Oyu’s summit on February 28 saw them climb to 7,900 meters before some of the team members started facing health problems, an issue with an oxygen mask, including the wrath of the mountain itself.
“As you know the mountains are the leaders of our moves. We can only respect them and what they have planned for us, what we bring is our strength and determination which cannot compare to its power. We went for a summit push on the morning of the 28th. We made it to 7,900m. However, some of our team members fell ill, there were also some issues with an oxygen mask and we decided that with this, the addition of incredibly strong winds up to 100kph and a very technical rock face near the ridge towards the summit, it was time to retreat to basecamp. We put all our efforts into this push. We were so close. But our health and safety are of utmost priority,” Geljen shared on his social handles.
In addition, Geljen shared that five of the team members would join Pioneer Adventure’s team led by Mingma and push for the mountain’s summit this spring season.
“Some of our team (5 members) will be joining Pioneer's team who are climbing from Thame side of Cho Oyu. Their mission and our mission are the same. We are doing this for our country and to open a safe and accessible commercial route for the mountaineering community. So together we are more powerful! Together we can make this happen.”
Back in Kathmandu, executive director at Pioneer Adventure, Karki is busy with paperwork and making arrangements for the Pioneer team to stay at basecamp and make a summit push this spring. However, nothing can be said at the moment. The team may have to retreat from their mission for now if things do not go as planned.
“We will also make a discussion regarding the collaboration of the two teams to push for the summit, but the difference in permits taken by Gelje’s team for a different route could be a hassle,” Karki informed Republica. Geljen’s team will have to get new permits if his team wants to use the same route as Mingma’s team.
Furthermore, Karki stressed the importance of introducing new commercial routes in Nepal to be beneficial for the country's economy. He asserted that the introduction of a route to the summit of Mt Cho Oyu would help the Nepali mountaineering community to be independent of China to climb the mountain. This will help to increase revenue from tourism, will create new hotel opportunities, provide employment, and increase the flow of mountaineers, among other benefits.
